Coaching Services

If you want to begin training without a coach, it’s worth doing some research. There is plenty of climbing literature out there these days that gives great advice, such as Dave Macleod’s “9 Out Of 10 Climbers Make The Same Mistakes”, and “Training For Climbing”, by Eric Horst.

I personally was a big fan of Neil Gresham’s Masterclass series, (DVD’s that are now available in clip-form on YouTube), as they provided easy to follow technical drills, and simple, yet effective exercises to boost strength and endurance. The main thing to remember with training is that everybody is different, and what works for one person may not work for another, so keep an open mind, listen to your body, and always remember to keep a balance between hard training sessions and climbing for fun - that’s what it’s all about at the end of the day!

The easiest way to improve your technique is to have one-to-one sessions with an experienced performance coach, but if that’s not an option, then there are a few things you can do on your own that may help. The first is simple - make sure you have the right shoes! Many climbers wear rock shoes that are too baggy, or don’t fit the shape of their feet, then wonder why they’re struggling to stand on small footholds, or can’t heel hook because the heel of their shoe pulls off!

It’s important to test as many pairs of shoes as you can before you buy - try different brands, different sizes, and really find out what works best for you. A great way to do this is to attend a shoe demo (these happen at walls all over the UK with multiple different brands), where you can test pair after pair of shoes, and find out which ones you like most.

Another thing that may help with learning technique, is introducing drills into the beginning of your climbing session such as “silent feet”, (climbing whilst trying to make as little sound as possible with your feet), and “technical drill”, (hovering your hand above the hold you are moving to for a few seconds, before actually taking it). These drills force precise footwork and efficient movement - devoting half an hour or so to them every time you climb will almost certainly improve the way you move on the wall.

Generally speaking, to improve your overall climbing grade you need to become a stronger, and more efficient climber. A basic finger-boarding routine will improve your finger strength, circuits will develop your endurance, and exercises like pull-ups, and climbing on a steep board such as a Kilter Board, will condition your shoulders.

You can improve your footwork and general movement with technical drills, climbing with people more advanced than you, and challenging yourself by exploring different rock types, angles, or even climbing walls. Variety is key here, as how are you ever going to improve if you only try a single type of climb?

Finally (and this is the one that most people forget), try to develop your mental skills. Climbers all over the world struggle to do things that they are perfectly capable of physically, because they are held back by their own minds. Fear is one thing (are you holding yourself back on sport climbs because you are afraid to fall?), but it’s not the only factor at play. Developing a healthy relationship with climbing as a sport is essential. Give your everything when you feel like it, but don’t beat yourself up if you are having a bad day, or force yourself to train or try your project, when deep down you’d rather just be having fun on some easy boulders. As already stated above - climbing is supposed to be fun!